The purpose of this blog is to describe my experiences
abroad. As a study abroad student, I’m often times writing about the best
places I’ve ever been. But what about the worst place I’ve ever been? This post
is dedicated to my visit to Dachau Concentration Camp in Munich, Germany.
Dachau was
camp that was in use for 12 years. It can be categorized into 3 phases. Dachau
was used as the “model” camp for other camps. The prisoners would be marched to
the camp entrance down the streets of Dachau (the town). Our bus to the camp
purposely followed the same route to the camp that the prisoners would have
taken.
The Gate:
There is
only one entrance to the camp. The prisoners entered through the same gate that
we entered through. Since the camp is no longer in use, the government leaves
the front gate open at all times. This is a symbol of freedom. Leaving the gate open (even at night) lets the person know
that they are free to enter and leave at their leisure; they should never feel
trapped like the prisoners did. I really admire this small symbolic gesture.
Once through the gate, you can basically see the entire
camp. In front of you is a gigantic courtyard that was used for role call.
Prisoners would stand there for hours on end while being counting. Those who
had died during the night were brought out to the courtyard so that their
bodies could also be counted. If a prisoner died at work (90% left the camp to
work), their fellow prisoners would have to bring their bodies back to the camp
to be counted. Prisoners were to stand completely still with their head pointed
down. If they did anything to be
noticed, they would be shot. It was unsettling to see just how big the
courtyard is and to realize that the giant courtyard in front of me was
completely filled with prisoners.
It was interesting because we had the same tour guide we had
the day before. Only today, instead of the funny good-humored beer-drinking
German, we had a very different man. He was very mellow and calm. He showed us
how the prisoners were not allowed to step on the grass, if they did, they
would be considered “escaping” and would immediately be shot. If a guard shot
someone “escaping”, they’d receive a reward. Therefore, a guard could take a
prisoner’s cap, throw it onto the grass and order them to go get it. If they
didn’t, they’d be refusing orders and be shot. If they went to get it, they’d
be considered escaping and would be shot and the guard would be rewarded. The
guards could kill anyone they wanted to basically. After a couple years at Dachau,
they stopped recording the deaths because it was too much paperwork and too
many deaths to explain.
Our guide showed us the main building where the prisoners
were taken first. Dachau was an all-male camp. The men would first be taken
into this room and be stripped of 3 important things. The first most important
thing to be taken from them was their personal belongings. Everything they had
on them such as photos of their wives, letters from their family and ID cards.
Then they would lose their names. Before this visit, I had never realized how lucky I am to have my own name. It is
the one thing that has been and will be with me the longest. It is mine. There have been ex-prisoners who
had been so mentally tortured that when asked what their names were, they
couldn’t remember. These prisoners lost their identity, and most importantly
their individuality in this room. The
last thing the prisoners lost was their clothes. They were stripped naked,
shaved from head to toe with a knife, and then placed under the showers. These
showers were purposefully a couple degrees above freezing in the winter and
just before boiling point in the summer. After the shower they were to find 1
pair of pants, 1 shirt, 1 light cotton jacket, 1 hat and 2 shoes. They had
about 2 minutes to get all of these and get out. They had no time to make sure
they fit or they would be beaten. So if a fat man had a very small man’s
jacket, he had to make it work. That was now his jacket and he only got one.
This is a rare photo of the men waiting to enter Dachau |
Here is the man in the long jacket from the above photo |
The list of names and number assigned |
He then took us into the room that was used for torture. I
won’t elaborate too much on this subject because it makes my stomach churn.
This was the point in the tour when I could feel myself mentally shutting down.
It had become so much to handle that my brain shut it out. I was on the verge
of tears at this point. My heart had never felt so heavy until this moment. It’s
very true that we walked away from Dachau with more questions than answers.
After the now museum, we walked through a building with 137.
This building was used to hold prisoners for torture. 137, and in every single
room several people have died. Each room was used for a different form of
torture. One room for example was used to keep a prisoner in complete darkness.
One prisoner was kept in darkness for 2 years. He was then brought out into the
sun during role call one day where they removed the blindfold. Immediately he
was blinded, and a blind man cannot work and therefore he was shot. It’s
important to know that the prisoners taken to Dachau in the first phase were Germans
who were not in agreement with Hitler’s government. The next phase was
homosexuals, gypsies and prisoners. The final phase was the Jewish people and
basically anyone else.
137 rooms for torture. One hundred thirty seven. |
One of the rooms |
We then walked to a model building of how the housing was
set up for each phase. As each phase progressed, the worse and worse conditions
got. In the first phase they each had their own bed. By the third phase, there
had been so much overcrowding that there was 4 to a bed. People were not
permitted to get up during the night so they would go to the bathroom in their
bed, leaking through onto those under them. One survivor said that the thing
that what he remembers most from his childhood was waking up on the bottom bunk one
morning to find that his two best friends had drowned in their sleep from the
waste products of those above them.
This one building was the model, behind it were the
foundations of hundreds of the exact same building. It was haunting to see the
rows and rows of identical foundations. The Nazi’s had everything perfectly in
order, everything was clean and simple; everything was right angles. Therefore
the memorials on site have little to no right angles in them.
We were also shown a piece of the electric fence that
surrounded the camp. There was no way a prisoner could even get to the fence
because they would have to step on the grass. If they somehow got past the
grass, they would then have to jump across the bunker, over the trip wire and
over the electric fence –all of this while being shot at by the guards.
We then were taken to the crematorium where thousands of
bodies had been cremated. We walked by mass graves where thousands had been
buried. So many people that below the surface is 2m deep of ash. After the
crematorium we were shown this long building where the gas chambers were
located. The gas chambers in Dachau were not used for mass extermination like
in other camps. The purpose of the gas chambers here were for testing purposes.
Still, many people died for the purpose of “testing”. The people would be told
that they were going in for a shower, so that they would go inside willingly.
Still today in Germany, they do not call the shower rooms “shower rooms”, they
call them something else instead.
At the very end of the tour we stopped at a statue outside
of the crematorium and gas chamber. This statue is of a survivor. Notice his
posture is relaxed. He has a long jacket, his hand in his pocket and no hat
on. Everything about this statue shows him being an individual again.
One aspect of Dachau that really got me was not only the
physical torture that the prisoners had to endure on a daily basis but the
psychological torture. They would place shelves above the beds, but the
prisoners did not have anything to put on them. They would have coat hangers in
their sleeping quarters but the prisoners didn’t have any coats to hang. The
slogan of the camp was “work will set you free” because the prisoners were
supposed to be on their path to “re-education”. But work will not set them
free, if they work too hard they will die, and if they don’t work hard enough
they will die. They had a sign that hung in the room where they confiscated all
of the prisoner’s personal belongings. It read “Smoking is Forbidden”. But the
prisoners didn’t have cigarettes to smoke since everything had been taken from
them already. Alone these small psychological tortures seem silly, but put them
all together and they contort and torture the mind.
Visiting Dachau camp was not a pleasant experience. I’m
aware that many students on their spring break usally visit tropical islands
and beaches, not concentration camps. Although I did not enjoy my time at
Dachau, I feel it was necessary to pay my respects to the thousands lost. One
of my favorite aspects about Germany is how open and honest they are about their
dark past. Other countries would never allow the public to come and tour their
concentration camps where their people brutally exterminated people by the
thousands free of charge. I truly admire Germany’s openness. They use their
past history as a way to prevent it from happening again. Each year, the German
police are required to visit Dachau to have a refresher course where they are
taught that if something like this were ever to happen again, they should
listen to their humanity rather than to orders and stop it. German schools are
required to teach students about their past.
Like I said, I could have went anywhere else. My heart
probably would have felt lighter and my skin would probably have become tanner.
But instead, I chose to catch of glimpse of humanity in one of its darkest
forms. It took an entire day for me to come “back to life” after visiting
Dachau. I literally just wanted to fall apart and cry hysterically. What I took
away from my visit though is much more important than tan skin and key chains. I
became grateful for everything I have.
For my coat, my clothes, my pictures, my hair, my license, my bed, my name. So the next time you go to hang up
your coat, remember how lucky you are to have a coat to hang.
"May the example of those who were exterminated here between 1933-1945 because they resisted Nazism help to unite the living for the defense of peace and freedom and in respect for their fellow man" |
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